A Dermatologist’s Guide to Evening Out Dark Spots and Hyperpigmentation. Close up of handsome black man stroking his face

A Dermatologist’s Guide to Evening Out Dark Spots and Hyperpigmentation

Sandra Scott

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Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common skin concerns for men with black skin.


Whether its dark spots left behind by acne, irritation from shaving, or areas of uneven tone, these issues can be frustrating to deal with - and even harder to treat.


We understand the unique challenges that come with darker skin tones and why it’s important to use the right approach.


So here we’ve broken down exactly what causes hyperpigmentation and how to even out your skin tone with professional advice, targeted products, and simple changes to your routine.


You deserve skincare that works - not just for “everybody’s skin,” but for your skin. Let’s get started.


What Causes Hyperpigmentation on Black Skin?


Hyperpigmentation occurs when the skin produces excess melanin, the pigment responsible for your skin’s color. For black skin, this overproduction is often triggered by:

  • Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH): Dark spots that form after an acne breakout, razor bump, or skin injury.
  • Sun Damage: UV rays can worsen existing pigmentation and cause uneven patches to develop over time.
  • Irritation from Harsh Products: Many mainstream products are too aggressive for black skin and can lead to irritation or discoloration.
  • Ingrown Hairs: A common issue in men with curly hair, ingrown hairs often leave behind dark marks.

“The melanocytes, or pigment producing cells, in darker complexions are more primed to respond to triggers by pumping out more melanin,” says Dr. Whitney Bowe, a board-certified dermatologist. And if the body sends too much melanin to heal the trauma, it can create these dark spots.


The good news? With the right skincare routine and professional advice, these concerns can be addressed effectively.


A Dermatologist’s Guide to Evening Out Dark Spots and Hyperpigmentation. Close up of black man smoothing his face with his hands

ACTION PLAN: How to Treat and Prevent Dark Spots and Hyperpigmentation


Step 1: Cleanse Gently but Effectively


Start with a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser that won’t strip your skin. 

Our Daily Face Wash is ideal - it cleans deeply without causing dryness or irritation. Plus, it contains Lactic Acid, a mild exfoliant that helps fade dark spots over time by promoting cell turnover.


Why It’s Great for Black Skin:
This cleanser removes dirt and oil while maintaining your skin’s natural barrier, preventing dryness and irritation—two common triggers for hyperpigmentation.


Step 2: Hydrate and Brighten


Hydration is key for black skin, which tends to lose moisture easily, leading to dryness and dullness. Use our Hydrating Daily Moisturizer, which contains Hyaluronic Acid for long-lasting hydration and Vitamin E to protect and repair your skin.


“Interest in newer products that promote an even skin tone and/or improve hyperpigmentation is especially strong amongst darker skin types”, says Dr Andrew Alexis, Director of the Skin of Color Center at St. Luke's Roosevelt Hospital, New York. 


He’s been looking into the effectiveness of naturally derived, or botanical, active ingredients – like soy, niacinamide, licorice extract, vitamin C and kojic acid – to evaluate their effects on hyperpigmentation in clinical studies.


He concluded that they can be successfully incorporated (mostly as additions) in the management of hyperpigmentation.


So while our Hydrating Daily Moisturizer soothes and hydrates, adding a brightening serum to your routine can further boost results.


For a brightening effect, look for a serum with ingredients like niacinamide and vitamin C, which work to even out skin tone and reduce dark spots.

Step 3: Use Targeted Treatments for Dark Spots


If you’re dealing with stubborn hyperpigmentation, a spot treatment with  azelaic acid or kojic acid  can help. 

These natural ingredients are safe for black skin and work to lighten areas of excess pigmentation without irritating the surrounding skin.


There’s also a lot of interest in  tranexamic acid  amongst dermatologists. With it proving to be highly effective for preventing and treating blemishes as well as hyperpigmentation and melasma.


“In dermatology, it has been found to have a potent depigmenting effect, as it interferes in the pathway that activates the excessive production of melanin, responsible for dark spots on the skin,” explains dermatologist Carlos Morales Raya, director of the clinic that bears his name.

 

Step 4: Shaving Smart to Prevent Razor Bumps


Ingrown hairs and razor bumps can often lead to dark spots, especially for men with curly hair. 


Use our Protective Shave Cream to minimize irritation. It’s infused with Tea Tree Oil, which fights bacteria and prevents ingrown hairs, and Shea Butter, which soothes and hydrates the skin during shaving.


Follow up with our Hydrating Daily Moisturizer, which calms redness and irritation while hydrating your skin to prevent dryness.


Pro Tip: Always shave with the grain of your hair, use a single-blade razor, and exfoliate gently to free trapped hairs.



Step 5: Protect Your Skin with Sunscreen


Yes, black skin needs sunscreen too!


In fact, sunscreen is your secret weapon against uneven skin tone.


UV rays can worsen hyperpigmentation, making it harder to even out your skin tone. Use a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher daily, even if you’re indoors or it’s cloudy.


According to Hillary Clark, esthetician, “Even indirect exposure can activate easily triggered melanocytes, causing more hyperpigmentation.”


A Dermatologist’s Guide to Evening Out Dark Spots and Hyperpigmentation. Black man washing and exfoliating his face at sink

FAQs


Why is hyperpigmentation more noticeable on black skin?
Because black skin contains more melanin, excess melanin production (caused by inflammation, injury, or sun damage) results in more noticeable dark spots and discoloration.


How long does it take to fade dark spots?
With consistent use of targeted treatments and sunscreen, you may see improvement in 4–8 weeks. Stubborn spots can take longer, but persistence pays off.


Are chemical exfoliants safe for black skin?
Yes! Gentle chemical exfoliants like Lactic Acid or Mandelic Acid are safe and effective for fading dark spots without irritation. But avoid harsh physical scrubs, which can worsen pigmentation.


What’s the best way to prevent razor bumps?
Shave with the grain, use a protective shave cream (like ours with Tea Tree Oil), and exfoliate gently to prevent hairs from curling back into the skin.


Do I really need sunscreen if I have dark skin?
Absolutely. While melanin offers some natural protection, it’s not enough to prevent UV damage and hyperpigmentation. Daily sunscreen is a must.

The Takeaway


Hyperpigmentation is a common concern for black skin, but with the right routine and targeted products, you can even out your skin tone and keep it healthy and vibrant. 


Focus on gentle cleansing, hydration, and protecting your skin from the sun, while using treatments that address dark spots without causing irritation.


At OTIS SKINCARE, we’re committed to creating products that work for your skin - because results matter. 


Start your journey to clearer, more even skin today. You’ve got this!


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RESPECT FOR YOUR SKIN



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This article is for informational purposes only and does not contain medical advice. As always, please contact your physician or qualified healthcare provider with any questions regarding a medical condition.

References:


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Fatima S, Braunberger T, Mohammad TF, Kohli I, Hamzavi IH. The Role of Sunscreen in Melasma and Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation . Indian J Dermatol. 2020 Jan-Feb;65(1):5-10. doi: 10.4103/ijd.IJD_295_18. PMID: 32029932; PMCID: PMC6986132.

 

Chaowattanapanit S, Silpa-Archa N, Kohli I, Lim HW, Hamzavi I. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: A comprehensive overview: Treatment options and prevention . J Am Acad Dermatol. 2017 Oct;77(4):607-621. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2017.01.036. PMID: 28917452.

 

Moolla S, Miller-Monthrope Y. Dermatology: how to manage facial hyperpigmentation in skin of colour. Drugs Context. 2022 May 31;11:2021-11-2. doi: 10.7573/dic.2021-11-2. PMID: 35720052; PMCID: PMC9165630.

 

Davis EC, Callender VD. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: a review of the epidemiology, clinical features, and treatment options in skin of color. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010 Jul;3(7):20-31. PMID: 20725554; PMCID: PMC2921758.

 

Alexis AF, Blackcloud P. Natural ingredients for darker skin types: growing options for hyperpigmentation . J Drugs Dermatol. 2013 Sep;12(9 Suppl):s123-7. PMID: 24002160.

 

Chen T, Xue J, Wang Q. Tranexamic Acid for the Treatment of Hyperpigmentation and Telangiectatic Disorders Other Than Melasma: An Update . Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2024 Sep 25;17:2151-2163. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S479411. PMID: 39350932; PMCID: PMC11439988.